Khao San Road: A Patchwork in Progress

In less than a ten-minute walk, the entire world opens up into a chaotic jungle of people, foods, aromas, and entertainment. With a unique mix of genres from rich to poor, small people, lady-boys, to children selling roses at 2am in the morning, the vibe at Khao San Road in Thailand ranges from inspirational to heartbreaking.

Children with their fathers sleeping on cardboard with the trash on the streets are found beside a cultural mix of live music and high profile markets in one of the wealthiest areas of the city. Everything from African Drums, Thai Fisherman Pants, native jewellery, alligator purses, and exotic foods can be purchased at these markets. Fried crickets, spicy Indian curry, chocolate dipped bananas, fresh pineapple, and chicken rice dishes are just a few of the items on the menu.    

From newborns to grandmothers, everyone here has goods to sell and readily jump at every single opportunity they may get. An average wage is about 250 baht per day for a hard working labourer, which is the average amount we may spend on an expensive single meal for two in Bangkok, or in US terms, less than $9 USD. As a tourist, my heart is split between enjoying my time here, and feeling terrible for the people lying miserably on the streets.

Backpackers and tourists are a major source of income for the locals. A simple item such as a brim hat may retail locally at less than 20 baht whereas a tourist will readily separate with 1-500 baht for the same item.

Until I moved to this area of town, I had yet to see a single beggar or unfed person, who by my calculations must be living like kings compared to his fellow labourers.  

Tourists from every region of the world, particularly from Asian and European countries come to purchase tailor made goods, enjoy luxuries like a Thai message, fish spas, and listen to live music.

Women ornately dressed in shapely hats covered in gold bells or spiralled rainbows, and carry trays full of goods from person to person urging a sale while adorable children sell roses to with their convincing smiles.  Streets bustle with eager taxis and tuk tuk drivers, and motorcyclists wiggle their way through on sidewalks and through crowded restaurants. If I ever though there were unusual or pointless law in the US, I now realize their usefulness in a city like Bangkok, where rules vary from person to person, and on more of a daily basis.

Khao San Road is a unique patchwork of cultures, music and foods that includes all walks of life and the range of classes within this versatile society. Although I have mixed and torn emotions about this niche of the city, it is certainly a must see eye-opener.

Goodbye Perenthian Islands, selamat tinggal!

After spending nearly a month diving in the Pherenthian Islands, I am proud to say that I am now a certified Rescue Diver. It was hard to leave my new family behind, I really felt at home amongst the sandy beach huts, starry night skies, and crystal blue waters. The last several days brought unexpected grey skies and monsoon rains in parallel with Japans disastrous Tsunami. As news hit the islands, generators and power sources were quickly switched on to monitor what may come. Not being able to speak Chinese or Malay, I had to do a bit of my own research to determine my safety on the island. However, regardless of what I was about to learn, the boats were no longer shuttling to and from the islands due to extremely poor weather conditions. 

We quietly awaited news of Japan, the tsunami, as we watched rains wash new rivers into the island sands. The sea level was slowly rising, enough to engulf the boat arrival platforms and wash away at the legs of the chairs at the neighboring restaurant. I had planned on leaving the island and continuing my travels to Bangkok, where I was looking forward to meeting my mom, who flew into surprise me on my journey.

The sky cleared enough for a boat, so I rushed my things together, ran in to pay the dive shop… when my loyal bank managed to fail me by putting a hold on my card. One more party night on the island, this time we had a proper going away party! About 8am I managed to speed off on calm waters and a sunny day back to KL and onto a flight to Thailand.

Oh… and a side note: Toxic fish and rotten eel boiled with local flies on top of rice... you shouldn't always eat what the locals eat. :P 

(1st bad dish I've had in about 7 weeks, not too bad!?!)

Perenthian Islands, I Love You!!

Coral Bay on Perenthian Islands- Small Island. Most of these boats are used by dive centers, but also for fishing, taxi's and recreational uses. It's a small beach, the photo covers about half of it.  :)  **

Spotted with bright blue paint, I lay back on the porch of the dive centre, satisfied and fulfilled with a days work. Cushioned by my tribal shoulder bag and content with my sand covered toes, I sit back and watch the locals casually close up the dive shop.

Rambo dumps a bucket of sand onto the porch, and sweeps it into the floorboard gaps to level the porch, while the last boat arrives with John, an English dive instructor and two students. The crew pull their gear out of the salty ocean and walk past the newly painted shop and begin to take apart their gear as the sun slowly sets upon the horizon. It sounds like a dream, but it’s real. Well I pinched myself, and it hurt. It’s finally cooling off. I can tell because sweat is now just a fine shimmer on my golden skin, rather than tears falling down my back.

I spent the day painting the front of the shop and underwater blue, and studying from a decaying rescue diver course book. I’m not sure whether I’ll be able to afford the course, so I’ve asked to borrow one of the old books to have a look. Of course I’ve been absorbing every last bit of information I can, reading from cover to... index (back cover and pages are missing). Just two weeks ago I made my first dive, and it’s definitely set into a lifestyle. The instructors think I myself could be a pretty good instructor and have been encouraging me since my course. I’m excited and proud to finally find something that comes second nature to me. I was actually rather upset after I graduated from the first course, cause it was over.

 

The dive team here at Steffens Sea Sports are like family, they’re like that with all people who come and dive, the longer you stay, the more you become part it. I can’t wait to show you photos, but I’m making a piece of art out of old shoes that I’ve found on the island. Just borrowed paint and found some old boards tonight, it’s going to be an attraction to bring people to the scuba school. It’s called “Home of the Lost Souls”. I’ll tell you more about it soon!

This island has become my Malaysian home, and I’ve never been more content and satisfied. Perhaps someday I’ll come back to live, and work as a Dive Instructor.

 ** Photos "borrowed" from Google image search- authors unknown